The White Mountains of New Hampshire

Eagle Mountain House and Golf Course, Jackson, NH Credit Tom Caughey

Winter, spring, summer or fall, the White Mountains of New Hampshire has something for everyone. Nearly 800,000 acres make up the White Mountain National Forest in the Northeast part of the state. The boundaries are roughly from the town of Berlin to the North, Franconia to the West, Conway to the East and the southern edge is Rumney. The White Mountains

All year round the area offers a multitude of outdoor activities as well as attractions and entertainment, plus the opportunity to admire the gorgeous vistas. When I was a youngster, my mom’s parents, Granny and Papa, would frequently pack us kids into the car during the summer months and travel up to the White Mountains. I think Papa really loved the Whites (which they are nicknamed) because it reminded him of his home country of Scotland. He was a professional soccer player and immigrated to America in 1920. Sixty million years ago Scotland was joined to America and Greenland, and it separated when the North Atlantic began to form. Hence, the White Mountain region looks amazingly similar to parts of Scotland. Papa must have felt right at home. 

Polar Caves Credit Polar Caves Park

My most recent trip to the Whites afforded me the opportunity to revisit childhood memories, as well as make new ones. I stopped by Polar Caves located in Rumney, which we always went to first on our trips. There are nine granite caves that were formed during the last ice age, plus they have an animal park. As a kid I loved this place and I remember my favorite cave to push through was called The Lemon Squeeze, when I was a fraction of the size I am today. Well, having returned to Polar Caves as an adult, I have now renamed the Lemon Squeeze, the MRI. Still, it’s a great attraction and perfect for kids up to the age of maybe 10. Polar Caves

 

Presidential Range from Snow Village Credit Carrie Steeves

Traveling north you quickly reach the White Mountains. Folklore says that in 1524 a seafaring explorer on the Atlantic glancing towards the New Hampshire mountain range off in the far distance named them the White Mountains due to their snowcapped peaks. 

The White Mountains make up the Presidential range, which include Mount Madison, Jefferson, Adams, Clay, Monroe, Eisenhower, and the highest peak Mount Washington. The Whites are also part of the Appalachian Trail, offering 89.5 miles of phenomenal and diverse hiking and camping opportunities. Suggested months to hike the trails are May through October. There are easier ways to explore the range, in particular, Mount Washington. In 1861 the Mount Washington Auto Road opened up to the public. The route travels 4,618 feet from the base and reaches the highest point in the Northeast at 6,288 feet above sea level. You’re welcome to drive the route yourself or join a guided tour. Another way to discover the Mountain is aboard the Cog Railroad. Offering stunning views and operating from May – Oct, the trip is totally safe and exhilarating, if not a bit nail-biting. The views are utterly breathtaking. From November 1 to December 31 there are shortened one-hour trips to the Waumbeck Station. Cog Railroad

Cog Railroad Credit Mt Washington

The Cog Railroad is a three-hour round-trip excursion to the summit of Mount Washington. The excursion offers you more than enough time to explore the State Park facilities up top and to absorb the magnificent mountaintop panoramas. At times you’ll think you’re on the moon, but it always feels majestic. Seasonal and weather-related restrictions apply so always check their website to see what’s happening.

Cog Railroad Credit Mt Washington

A must do for every trip I make to the White Mountains is to travel along the Kancamagus Scenic Byway, which extends from the town of Conway in the east to Lincoln in the west. Running parallel and snuggling up to the highway is the Swift River. There are 5 scenic lookouts/stops you can make along the gorgeous drive. There are trails, waterfalls, watering holes, covered bridges, and much more to explore. On the west end of the Kancamagus in the town of Liberty is another iconic natural attraction, The Flume Gorge. The experience here is spectacular and includes waterfalls, a covered bridge, glacial pools, and an 800-foot gorge that extends from the base of Mount Liberty. It’s a two-mile trek and worth every step of the way. Just south of Liberty, for adults who enjoy their wine, there is the Seven Birches Winery at Loon Mountain. Seven Birches blends handcrafted classic European grape varietals with locally-sourced fruits to create their wines of distinction. It’s a full production commercial winery with a tasting room located within the grand new Riverwalk Resort at Loon Mountain. For beer lovers there is Tuckerman Brewing Co. Owners Kirsten Neves and Nik Stanciu opened Tuckerman Brewing Co. in 1998 and it is now one of the longest-running owner-operated breweries in the state. 

The Whites are also an incredible location for birdwatchers. All Trails offers a terrific list of best bird watching trails. And there’s also great info from Audubon. An avid birder, photographer, and Jackson Village local, Tom Caughey, is my oldest friend. I asked him if there are areas that he finds himself gravitating to, for bird watching. Birding

Goldfinch Credit Tom Caughey
Eastern Bluebird Credit Tom Caughey

“I enjoy searching for unusual birds like the Indigo Bunting, Great Blue Heron, Green Heron, and migrating ducks. New Hampshire offers great opportunities for bird watching just off the road in marshes and small ponds.” This prompted me to ask, “You may not want to disclose this info, but are there parts of the National Forrest that only you know and love, far from the obvious tourist attractions?” “I am attracted to the rivers and streams in the mountain valleys. You can find many waterfalls not listed in the travel books just by studying the terrain. A change in elevation can be an indicator of a pretty falls and sometimes a great opportunity to swim au natural in remote pools. Although usually brisk!”

Ellis Falls Credit Tom Caughey

One such natural wonder that is in the guidebooks is Glen Ellis Falls. The 64-foot-high cascade is a perfect example of how beautiful the falls are in the White Mountain area. There are many villages that make up the region, each one offering a slightly different energy, but all are charming and unique. Jackson is in the heart of the White Mountain Valley and is well-known as one of the most scenic towns with some of the best vistas in the White Mountains. 

Ellis River Covered Bridge Credit Tom Caughey

You cross the famous Honeymoon Covered Bridge spanning the Ellis River when you enter Jackson. It’s referred to as the Honeymoon Bridge because of an early tradition of lovers kissing inside of it for good luck. It’s one of only 53 covered bridges left in New Hampshire. For Leaf Peepers, the area is unparalleled and their rather short peak foliage season is approximately from the end of September through the second week of October. North Conway has been voted the best and prettiest New England town, time and time again.   Main Street is peppered with charming pubs, restaurants, art galleries, as well as B&Bs and inns. For those who love to shop for a bargain check out Settlers Green where there are over 70 factory outlet and boutique stores with no sales tax! 

Crawford Depot Credit Joseph Sohm

You’ll also discover The Conway Scenic Railroad in North Conway. The beautiful train depot was built in 1874 in the Russian-Victorian style and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1979. They have several types of excursions, including shorter ones stopping from town to town in a vintage 1920s train, to a longer trip up into the Crawford Notch region which is phenomenal during peak foliage season. 

Covered Bridge along the Kancamagus River Credit Joe Bilous

Eaton is a quieter, less populated area and is the quintessential New England town with its vintage country store and the often photographed steepled white church, all embracing the central attraction, Crystal Lake. Traveling through this small village you will definitely feel like you stepped back in time. 

Tuckerman Ravine Credit Tom Caughey

Although there are no ski resorts located on any of the Presidential mountains per se, there is skiing on Mount Washington. Tom and I have climbed Tuckerman Ravine, which is a glacial cirque nestled into the southeast face of Mt Washington. The trek up with ski equipment is quite a journey in itself, but skiing down the ravine is thrilling.  Tuckerman Ravine

The White Mountain Valley area does offer 12 ski resorts with over 237 miles of slopes for downhill skiing and snowboarding, but the mountains are not just for skiing. Spring, Summer and Fall, each resort offers endless opportunities to explore and enjoy what the mountains have to offer, from zip lining to disc golf and water parks. Some have tennis camps others have artist retreats. Click through each resort’s website and see everything they have to offer. All Combined, the resorts here have a total of 79 ski lifts. Wildcat Mountain offers one of the most unique resorts and the ski trails literally face Mount Washington. You’ll find some of the most challenging skiing at Wildcat as well as the Polecat Trail, a beginner route and the longest ski trail descending from the summit to the base that is often described as “two- and three-quarter miles of sheer pleasure.” For thrill-seekers, hop on their four-person ZipRider zip-line, which operates in the summer months.

On Loon Mountain, the skiing in winter is fantastic as are their mountain bike trails in the warmer months. They also have an 18-hole alpine disc golf course, but it’s their spectacular gondola ride in the fall during foliage season that attracts visitors from far and wide. Loon Mountain

Waterville Valley Credit Waterville Valley Resort

I must admit, my all-time favorite ski resort is Waterville Valley. Waterville Valley  As a teenager, Waterville was my go-to ski resort. I really enjoyed the range of trails it had to offer. Simple, open and wide paths, which allow you to feel like your gliding down the mountain, flying like a bird. But they also have extreme headwalls if you want to navigate down a deathdefying cliff. (Experienced skiers only, please.) Waterville also offers some beautiful accommodations. My dad would drive up with me for ski weekends. Although he didn’t ski, he was a voracious reader. All day long as I’d ski down the mountain as many times as I physically could, Dad would be devouring books fireside in the lodge. When the lifts would close for the day, we’d meet up for big steak dinners with overstuffed baked potatoes followed by cheesecake. It was actually a terrific bonding between father and son. One night, Tom and I were discussing best venues for après-ski cocktails and Wildcat Inn and Tavern turned up as number one. 

Goat Cheese Pillows at Wildcat Tavern Credit PQ Productions

Located in Jackson, it’s a homey country inn with its own tavern. Executive Chef Bryant Alden offers up an eclectic menu and the number one item that patrons are gobbling up are their Goat Cheese Pillows (phyllo dough wrapped goat cheese oven baked and drizzled with balsamic reduction served with blueberry compote). Caution: they are addictive. They also produce The Garden Stage Dinner Concert Series during the warmer months outside in their garden. On their website you can find their entertainment schedule throughout the year. Wildcat Tavern

When it comes to fine dining, The Wentworth Inn is at the top of the list. Also in Jackson, the stunning Wentworth is owned and operated by Ellie Koeppel. It has 51 elegant guest rooms and a charming dining room. Plus, they have easy access to 98 miles of cross-country ski trails in winter. The Wentworth can also accommodate weddings and meetings, and although it is a separate entity, there’s an exceptional 18-hole golf course, the Wentworth Golf Club. I had the pleasure of chatting with Ellie who immigrated to America from Ireland 31 years ago. I asked her what was so special about The White Mountain Area. “I simply just think we are so lucky to live in Jackson. In all the years that I have lived here, certainly there has been much change, but the sense of peace I feel as I enter through the covered bridge is always present.”

Wentworth Inn Credit Wentworth Inn

People travel from all over to dine at The Wentworth Inn and enjoy Chef Brian Gazda’s culinary creations. Ellie added, “Brian has been steadfast in his commitment to producing exceptional food and making The Wentworth the hotel that it is today.” And what she shared next, I think is just phenomenal. “Staffing continues to be our biggest challenge and annually I bring in young culinary interns from around the world to spend a year doing a culinary internship in our kitchen. I see them as they arrive, some with barely basic knife skills, and watch them develop through the year under Brian’s patient tutelage to become accomplished young chefs with bright futures ahead of them.” I had to ask her what was the most popular item was on the menu, and I was a pleasantly surprised at Ellie’s response. “The vegetarian dish, Crispy Italian Herb Eggplant which is served with a creole sauce, garlic spinach, on a bed of soft ricotta coulis and garnished with pine nuts, basil pesto and aged parmesan. I have guests that order two, one to enjoy that evening and one to take back home for lunch the following day.” The Wentworth

Another terrific restaurant and accommodation is Max’s Restaurant and Pub at Snow Village Inn, in Eaton. Speaking to events coordinator Carrie Steeves I discovered that people come from miles away to enjoy Chef Josh Burkett’s rack of lamb, pork dumplings, daily fresh fish, and short ribs. Snow Village Inn

New Zealand Rack of Lamb, Snow Village Inn Credit Carrie Steeves

I congratulated her on their breathtaking setting. “We truly have a spectacular location. Guests are mesmerized as they walk into the Main Inn. Our view of Mount Washington and the entire Presidential Mountain Range is unrivaled.”

Snow Village Inn Credit Carrie Steeves

Only a few of the Grand Resorts still exist and one of them is the Eagle Mountain House and Golf Club with a 9-hole course located in Jackson. Built in 1879, Eagle Mountain House has continuously welcomed generations of vacationers year-round for over a hundred years. Eagle Mountain House

Eagle Mountain House and Golf Course Credit Tom Caughey

The following day, I asked Tom if there were any gay bars in the White Mountain Valley area and he said, “All of the local pubs and taverns are very gay friendly, staffed by gay people usually. So, it’s not just a neighborhood where you’ll find a gay bar. It’s too mainstream to need a gay bar.” On that note, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that 3 successful Inns: Notchland Inn, Cranmore Inn, and Inn at Crystal Lake, are all gay owned and operated.

Notchland Inn Credit Will Zimmerman

The owners of the Notchland Inn are Ed Butler and Les Schoof. I asked them what it was about the White Mountain Region that they were drawn to. Ed replied, “In our explorations of the Mount Washington Valley, before becoming residents, we felt comfortable and welcomed.” When searching for the right Inn, the men said, “Notchland ‘sang to us’ as we drove up the drive!” Ed continued, “We wanted a structure with land around it. Notchland, when we bought it, had over 300 acres! It is in the smallest town in New Hampshire, Hart’s Location, with current census of 46 residents. And we are in the middle of Crawford Notch State Park and the National Forest. So, the goal of having space around us was achieved! And Les has used some of that space to create wonderful gardens.” Notchland Inn

Notchland Inn Credit Cheryl Kerr

Eddie Bennett and Christopher Bellis are the innkeepers of the Cranmore Inn in North Conway. Along with their children, David and Sherie, they have a passion for travel, food, and people. I asked them where their travels have taken them. “We do love to travel and often mix up our travel destinations from visiting family in Napa, CA, Seattle, WA, South Florida and Austria to exploring new and familiar areas. In Europe; London, Paris, Italy, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, Czech Republic, Barcelona, and also relaxing in the sun at Caribbean locations including Grand Cayman, St. Maarten, Puerto Rico, Mexico, plus others.” The Cranmore Inn

Cranmore Inn Credit Cranmore Inn

I mentioned to Christopher that I was surprised at how gay friendly the White Mountain area is. “Yes, it is and I am President of the local Pride group, White Mountains Pride, and continue to work to promote the area as an inclusive place to live, work, and play not only for LGBTQIA+ people, but all people.”

Inn At Crystal Lake Credit Tim Shellmer

When I stayed at the Inn at Crystal Lake in Eaton, it was challenging to fall asleep the first night because it was so quiet. Bobby Barker and Tim Ostendorf have been owners of the 11-room Inn since 2001. Bobby is the chef for the main dining room and their Palmer Pub, and Tim is bartender and sous chef. As Tim says, “We’re very hands on.” Tim is a classically trained singer and on designated nights they offer Opera/Musical dinners. Concert style shows are accompanied by four course dinners tailored to the show that evening. When talking to the couple they shared a rather moving story about their gay pride flag. “When we first moved in we promptly put out our rainbow flag, but after a few years it got quite tattered and worn, so we took it down and didn’t replace it right away.  Inn at Crystal Lake

Inn at Crystal Lake Credit Inn at Crystal Lake

A wonderful older Eaton resident called up to ask where the rainbow flag went; she was concerned that perhaps we weren’t feeling welcomed. We assured her that we didn’t take it down as any sort of statement, it simply got worn out. Unfortunately, during the pandemic when things were heightened, and emotions running high, a local man started flying the Confederate Flag. Another local man tried to off-set that by handing out as many rainbow flags as he could and he subsequently confronted the man flying the Confederate Flag explaining the offensiveness of that flag. His response was he wasn’t taking down the flag until all the “fag flags” came down. So, we went even further by hanging a 12’x18′ rainbow flag from the front balcony. It almost touched the ground!! I don’t want to give a bad impression of Eaton, though. Overall people have been extremely supportive, but maybe it’s a good reminder that the fight against discrimination is far from over.”

Whether it’s an exhilarating winter day of downhill skiing, a gorgeous spring morning of birdwatching, a warm summer day of hiking, a stunning afternoon of fall leaf peeping, or maybe an evening of fine dining and live entertainment, the White Mountains of New Hampshire has it all.  

View of The Presidential Range from Snow Village Inn Credit Carrie Steeves




       

Six Fabulous Restaurants in Provincetown, Massachusetts

Pan-Roasted Lobster - The Lobster Pot Photo Mike Potenza

I love Provincetown for all it has to offer. I appreciate her pristine beaches, the stellar art galleries, and the thrilling whale watching. Plus, it’s been a haven for performers and artists of all types for decades in a seaside village stamped with an “anything goes” attitude. But for me, Provincetown is also a great foodie destination.

From the time that the Pilgrims first landed here in 1620 (five weeks later they arrived in Plymouth) the entire New England coast was teeming with copious amounts of fresh fish and crustaceans; hence, it logically became a prosperous industry for the locals. There was so much cod off the coast of Provincetown and other nearby ports, that they named the whole Cape…Cape Cod.

Hundreds of years ago, lobster was so bountiful along the New England coast it was considered “poor man’s food”. People got tired of the shellfish and fed it to prisoners, livestock, and indentured servants. By the mid 1800s Provincetown’s commercial fishing and whaling industry had gone into decline, but in 1873 the first railroad was built carrying tourists to Provincetown eager to explore this paradise referred to as the Outer Cape. At this time, lobster was promoted as a “fancy food” and segued into a delicacy savored by the rich. So, it’s fitting to begin this culinary exploration with one of the most iconic restaurants in Provincetown.

The Lobster Pot
Since 1979, the McNulty family and the Lobster Pot’s dazzling neon signs have welcomed diners to their bayside waterfront dining rooms with open arms. Every year that I make a pilgrimage to Ptown, I’ll dine at the Lobster Pot, at least once. Often, I’ll order their classic New England Clam Bake which includes a bowl of clam chowder, steamed mussels, corn on the cob, red potatoes, and a 1 ¼ pound boiled lobster. Takes me right back home, having grown up in Andover, just north of Boston. Another huge hit with diners is their Pan Roasted Lobster flambeed with brandy then roasted in the oven and served with an herb butter.

Instinctively I want to stick with lobster, but I challenge myself to enjoy dishes and recipes I’m not familiar with. Their Portuguese soup rivals all other recipes that I’ve tried. But don’t miss their seafood soup, Sopa Do Mar. It’s full of mussels, shrimp, calamari, fish, andouille sausage, Canjun spices and Creole sauce with orzo. Super fresh and spicy, but not overwhelmingly so. I also love their blackened swordfish, which is served with a leek-cauliflower mash and prepared to perfection.

The Lobster Pot is celebrating their 42nd anniversary this year, and it’s the perfect place to dine with family and friends and enjoy some of the best food in New England. 321 Commercial Street. Tel: 508- 487-0842. www.ptownlobsterpot.com

Sal’s Place
This restaurant is named after Sal Del Deo. He arrived in Provincetown at age 18 and needed to support himself as an artist, so he opened a restaurant with his friend Ciro Cozzi. Together they created Ciro and Sal’s. After that success, Sal left to open up an establishment on his own, Sal’s Place, in the West End of town. For over five decades, Sal’s has been offering traditional Italian cuisine. The restaurant was purchased in 2016 by an Irish woman, Siobhan Carew, and she and her family are carrying on with Sal’s Italian theme with Chefs Chris Rainville and Marc Orfaly at the helm.

Pepper-Crusted Shrimp - Sal's Place - Photo Alison Gootee

I recently spoke with Ms. Carew’s oldest daughter, Michela, and asked her what were her customer’s favorite dishes. “Our menu changes seasonally, but I think that would be the Lobster Linguine a la vodka, and the Vongole: linguini with local clams, anchovy, white wine, capers, garlic and lemon.”

According to local songwriter, musician, and yarn spinning Vaudvillian, Zoe Lewis, her definite favorite appetizer at Sal’s is their Charred Octopus served with garbanzo bean puree, toasted pepitas, chili oil and parsley.

In the past I’ve loved both their Pepper Crusted Shrimp served with farro, zucchini, green olives, lemon, and parsley, as well as Sal’s Panzanella Salad, with cucumber, red onion, house-made country bread, charred tomato, and mint tossed with a light vinaigrette. 99 Commercial Street. Tel: 508-487- 1279. www.salsplaceprovincetown.com

The Pointe Restaurant + Wine Bar
I love their motto: Farm to Table, Pier to Plate. The Pointe is located up on Bradford Street and this beautiful Inn has charming views of Provincetown below. Food & Wine’s Top Ten Chef, Robbin Haas, has created a menu that draws from the freshest locally sourced seafood the Cape has to offer. Plus, Chef Haas brings to the table his worldwide experience considering he’s worked in Russia, Finland, Europe, Mexico, South and Central America, the Mediterranean, and the Caribbean.

Pan-Seared Cape Halibut - The Pointe Photo Credit The Pointe

 
 
The Pointe’s traditional Clam Chowder is delicious with a surprise addition of smoked bacon. 
Another great starter is their Fried Calamari. Crispy crunch on the outside, tender on the inside. 
I like mine with the Fra Diavolo dipping sauce. Devotees of The Pointe rave about their filet 
mignons, lobsters, and the crab cakes, but their absolute most loved dish is their Pan Seared Cape 
Halibut served with Parmesan risotto and English pea sauce.

The Pointe is one of the few upscale establishments in this very casual resort town. The servers are warm and welcoming, top notch but not stuffy. They are there when you need them, but don’t hover.

Tom Walter, one of the owners of the Inn and President of Applied Hospitality, Inc., takes great pride in the Pointe as well as the other areas of the business. Recently. He shared some great news with me: “Arthur, we are also currently creating an expansive outdoor dining patio overlooking the Provincetown Monument.” 82 Bradford Street. Tel: 508-487- 2365. www.provincetown-restaurant.com

The Canteen
This is your modern-day seafood shack with a very lively back garden located on the bay. A super great place to drop in for lunch, and where everything is made from scratch. Their seafood is locally sourced and they buy potatoes for their French fries just up the coast in Maine. They offer warm and cold Lobster Rolls on brioche buns. I prefer the hot buttered version, the cold is prepped more like a lobster salad, but both are refreshing and delicious. Made from whole Provincetown lobsters, they are shucked daily and cooked just to the point of doneness, hence, they present the most tender meat that melts in your mouth. A gift from the sea.

Hot Buttered Lobster - The Canteen - Photo Credit Christine-Hochkeppel

I had the good fortune of speaking with Rob Anderson who is the chef and co-owner of the restaurant, with his partner Loic Rossignon. I had to ask what their top-sellers were besides the lobster rolls.

“Our crispy brussel sprouts. Another popular dish is the cod banh mi sandwich. In addition to that, Frose (frozen rose) is a big seller at our bar and this year our Funfetti cake has been rolling out the door faster than we can make it. I’m sure it will be a bit hit this summer.”

Another sandwich that has risen in popularity is the Lobster Grilled Cheese. Chunks of fresh lobster topped with provolone and herbed mascarpone served on sourdough.

Local Grant King shared with me his thoughts about the restaurant. “The Canteen has two of the most community-minded owners, Rob and Loic, and they have wonderfully varied menus. Their weekly International Theme Dinners get raves. I’ve never had a bad meal here.”

Speaking of “theme nights,” past offerings on Tuesdays and Wednesdays nights have featured: Lebanese, Thai, Ramen, Irish, and Indian specialties. 225 Commercial Street. Tel: 508-487-3800. www.thecanteenptown.com

Large Seafood Sampler - The Red Inn Photo Credit Dick Mitchell
 

The Red Inn

The Red Inn scores #1 in my book for most romantic Inn and restaurant in Provincetown. Built in 1805 as a private residence, it was Mary Wilkinson who opened up the home as an inn in 1915 just as the roses that surround the beautiful property were in full bloom. Since then it’s been welcoming guests from all over the world.

The restaurant overlooks Provincetown Harbor offering gorgeous views of the bay and further out to Long Point (the absolute tip of Cape Cod’s finger) where its historic lighthouse winks at you throughout the night.

Philip Mossy is Executive Chef at the Inn, and diners rave about his Long Island Smoked Duck, the Pepper Crusted Filet, and the Pan Roasted Local Cod. I think there’s something so elegant about sitting at the bar and ordering the Large Seafood Sampler which includes: 12 oysters, 6 clams, 6 shrimp, two half lobsters, and a drink of your choice. The oysters are from Wellfleet, just two towns south of Provincetown. World renowned, Wellfleet oysters are traditionally long and strong shelled. Their bodies are plump and sweet with the perfect balance of brine. Add a smart cocktail and I’m in heaven. I also adore the Inn’s lobster sliders served on mini buns.

Located a little farther west on Commercial Street, The Red Inn is a quiet haven just a short distance from the celebratory area of downtown Provincetown. 15 Commercial Street. Tel: 508-487-7334. www.theredinn.com

Relish Bakery & Sandwich Shop
Sometimes you need a break, even from Lobster. Relish is my favorite take-away shop in Provincetown. They are known for exceptional confections as well as their crazy delicious made-to-order sandwiches. When I’m putting together a picnic lunch to enjoy at Herring Cove Beach or at Race Point Lighthouse, it’s goodies from Relish I’ll have in my knapsack.

I love their Italian Sandwich: Genoa salami, hot capicola, provolone cheese with balsamic dressing on ciabatta. Their Roast Beef and Swiss with pickled onions and mayo is also fantastic. For a lighter option, they also serve a Chickpea & Quinoa Wrap with Asian ginger, pickled veggies, hoisin sauce, and cucumbers.

Farrow & Tofu Bowl - Relish Photo Credit Nathan Butera

Another healthier addition to the menu is their Mediterranean Farrow & Tofu Bowl. Tofu is marinated with apple cider vinegar, garlic powder, oregano, and lemon juice, and white miso, then it’s placed on top of a farro salad comprised of chick peas, red onion, bell pepper, sundried tomatoes, capers, Kalamata olives and pepperoncini. The whole dish is then served on top of greens. It contains all my favorite ingredients and it looks beautiful too.

I asked Frank Vasello, chef and owner of Relish, about the people who are creating this endless array of tasty treats. “My head chef is Mark Buchholz and my baker is Sue Hale. They do most of the production at Relish.”

But we can’t ignore Relish’s plethora of sweet creations. At the top of the list is their Pear & Almond Danish, the Chocolate Espresso Coffee Cake, and their homemade Raspberry Pop-Tart! They also have scores of different cookies to choose from, and delicious fresh-roasted coffee and wonderful selection of teas. 93 Commercial Street. Tel: 508-487-8077. www.ptownrelish.com

 

Edmund White: Novelist, Memoirist, Essayist, Playwright, and Professor Emeritus

August 2020 saw the launch of A Saint From Texas, Edmund White’s 29th book. He’s famous for his self-deprecating sense of humor as well as his twinkling and often mischievous wit. White is the undisputed “silverdaddy” of gay literature. He unabashedly shares with his readers his deepest and often darkest thoughts about life and sex. He is also the co-author of The Joy Of Gay Sex.

His conversational and irreverent style of writing has garnered him many awards. White was made an officer in the French Ordre des Arts et des Lettres and won a literary prize from the Festival of Deauville. He was also named the 2018 winner of the PEN/Saul Bellow Award for Achievement in American Fiction.

It is his memoir A Boy’s Own Story that splashed Mr. White onto the literary scene. Rounding out his trilogy of autobiographies he followed this up with The Beautiful Room Is Empty and The Farewell Symphony. White is an essayist and he also worked as a correspondent at French Vogue for a decade. He still contributes to the New York Times Book Review.

In City Boy, White chronicles his life in New York City during the 60s and 70s. He moved to the City in July of ‘62 after majoring in Chinese at the University of Michigan and was accepted at Harvard to do his PhD but opted to move to Greenwich Village to live with his first boyfriend.

White wrote States of Desire: Travels in Gay America, a travelogue that explores gay culture in cities across the states in the late 70s. This was a gloriously free and adventuresome time just prior to the beginning of the AIDS epidemic. Along with Larry Kramer, White was one of the original 6 founders of the Gay Men’s Health Crisis (GMHC).

White shares with us his life in Paris from ’83 to ’90 in his memoir Inside A Pearl, and in ’93 he penned the critically acclaimed biography, Genet.

He often spent summers in Venice and it was on my second trip to the “Floating City” when author David G. Hallman suggested I read White’s 2009 memoir City Boy, in particular chapter 11. Wickedly funny as well as informative, I now recommend the same to all my friends journeying to Venice. Each visit, I happily make my obligatory visit to Peggy Guggenheim’s museum. In fact, during a recent trip during Carnival the apartment I rented overlooked her museum garden, in particular, her stone chair.

“…she (Peggy) had one obsession— arranging for her babies (Lhasa Apsos), and herself, to be buried in the garden of her palazzo. It was against commune rules to be buried anywhere but in a cemetery, but Peggy was willing to give her entire art collection and her palace to the city of Venice in exchange for having the rules bent in her favor. She eventually succeeded. In her garden she had a Byzantine stone chair, and now she and many of her dogs are buried in the ground that surrounds it.” – from Chapter 11, City Boy

I recently had the great pleasure to talk with Edmund White (www.edmundwhite.com), discussing a broad range of topics as well as the launch of his latest book, A Saint From Texas.


Edmund, Venice is my favorite city abroad and I can’t stop visiting her. Do you still travel there?
I would in a heartbeat go there but it’s a tough city for someone on a cane.

You’ve lived in Paris. You made a risky trip to Syria in the early 80s, traveled to Jordan and Crete. You’ve visited Zurich often and went to the Cannes and Berlin film festivals. But New York City has remained your home base. Is there a destination you’re still aching to explore?
My favorite city is Istanbul, but I doubt it’s the same. I’d love to go to Kyoto.

Why is Kyoto your must-see city?
I love classic Japanese literature: Genji, the Pillow Book. And I once thought of myself as a Buddhist.

You weren’t just living in New York City during Stonewall, you were there! The night of June 28, 1969 you were at the Stonewall Inn during the riots. What was that like? Did you have an immediate sense of what was happening and the importance of the event?
Yes, it felt historic, but we laughed a lot at the slogans, The Pink Panthers or Gay is Good in imitation of Black is Beautiful.

We must discuss your most recent book, A Saint From Texas, launching this August, 2020. First, the cover design is gorgeous. It is so reminiscent of the late and beautifully talented illustrator, Roger Duncan. Who created the cover?
I think it was a cover of Vogue in the 1950s.

I haven’t read the entire Edmund White library, but I’ve consumed my fair share. I must confess, A Saint From Texas is definitely my favorite book of yours to date.
“Yvette and Yvonne Crawford are twin sisters, born on a humble patch of East Texas prairie but bound for far grander fates. Just as an untold fortune of oil lies beneath their daddy’s land, both girls harbor their own secrets and dreams—ones that will carry them far from Texas and from each other. As the decades unfold, Yvonne will ascend the highest ranks of Parisian society as Yvette gives herself to a lifetime of worship and service in the streets of Jericó, Colombia. And yet, even as they remake themselves in their radically different lives, the twins find that the bonds of family and the past are unbreakable.” (from A Saint From Texas)

The story is intelligent, clever, and emotional, but then slaps you across the face being unapologetically acerbic, even gleefully shocking. The twins, Yvonne and Yvette are complimentary, identicals. A Saint From Texas is just itching to be adapted to screenplay. Would you consider a film adaptation or have you been offered one?
Consider? I’d beg for it!

And the ending is ripe for a sequel. Are you planning on continuing the story?
No. Now I’m writing a novel set in the future about polyamory.

The dialogue flies at record speed. I sense you really enjoyed writing for and through these characters, especially Yvonne and Yvette.
I’ve always enjoyed writing female characters, especially Frances Trollope in Fanny, Crane’s wife in Hotel de Dream, and the sisters in the Saint.

In your memoirs I admire your ability to share the most intimate details of your life. Your body of work is the definition of an open book, no pun intended. Are there limits as to how much you will reveal about yourself, family, or friends and have you ever regretted scenarios you have shared?
I’m a literary exhibitionist, but when a dirty passage from Our Young Man was read out loud at my 80th birthday I cringed.

The flavor of A Saint From Texas tastes a bit like John Irving in all the best possible ways. Interestingly, the two of you are good friends. How did your relationship with John come about?
I could never have written the Saint without having read Irving—the scope, the braided narrative, the satire! I met him because he said nice things about me in a paper in Nashville. He’s a very warm, sincere man with strong opinions, though he can be self-deprecating. I was able to give him a Lammy as a friend of gays. (Lambda Literary Awards, also known as the Lammys, are awarded yearly by the U.S.-based Lambda Literary Foundation to published works which celebrate or explore LGBT themes.)

I know as an adult you’re a voracious reader. Were you also, as a child?
I remember, or think I do, when I learned how to read and I thought it would be my passport into other, better worlds. I didn’t like to read children’s books. When I was nine I wanted to read Anatole France’s Thaîs, which was under reserve as a dirty book. When I was unable to obtain it I took my protest all the way to the mayor’s office (no response). My favorite books in grade school were Pierre Loti’s Disenchanted about life in Turkey’s harems, War and Peace (though I disliked how the aristocrats’ dialogue was not translated from French), a novel about the Lost Dauphin, and Henry Green’s Nothing (still a favorite).

What is the most challenging aspect of the creative process for you?
The most rewarding aspect of writing a novel is how it ties your days together.

Any advice for wannabe writers?
If you’re a serious “literary” writer, don’t study the market but just write a book you yourself would like to read.

You’re a professor at Princeton and have taught creative writing classes. Do you ever offer master classes for plebeians like myself? I’d certainly be first to sign up.
I retired two years ago. I’d give a master class if offered. You’re hardly a plebeian!

When you’re in the throes of writing, what is your writing schedule like?
Totally chaotic, like my life. Only fear and guilt make me settle down to write.

Edmund, I have found you to be amazingly accessible and generous. In fact, you offered a blurb for the cover of my first novel 15 years ago. Thank you, again. And thanks in advance for the novels, memoirs, essays, and reviews you’ll be entertaining and enlightening us with in the near future.

My pleasure.